Why AYU Has Multiple Solutions: The Science Behind Our Formulations
Why AYU Has Multiple Solutions: The Science Behind Our Formulations
If you’ve ever wondered why AYU Sunless offers several spray tan solutions, even though we don’t follow color wheel concepts, you’re not alone. It’s one of the most common questions we receive from professionals and new artists.
The short answer: AYU’s formulas are built on science, performance, and skin health, not marketing theory.
Beyond Color Theory: How We Formulate Differently (With Spray Tan Artists in Mind)
AYU focuses on how each formula performs on real skin. Each formula has its own ingredient system and delivery base, influencing how it interacts with DHA and how it affects hydration, development, and fade. This is why two solutions with the same DHA percentage can still spray, feel, and develop differently.
The Bronzer Tint: Temporary Visual, Not Undertone Correction
One of the most asked questions in the sunless world is:
“Do your bronzers change undertones?”
When we reference color descriptors like plum, reddish-blue, or espresso, we’re describing the visible hue of the bronzer in the bottle or immediately after application, not suggesting undertone correction.
All AYU bronzers belong to a neutral brown spectrum formulated to perform beautifully on every skin type. Any subtle shift in hue, whether slightly plum, cocoa, or reddish-blue, comes naturally from botanical extracts that impart a gentle tint to the brown base.
AYU does not formulate around color theory or undertone matching. Our bronzers are designed for visibility and aesthetic appeal during spraying, ensuring smooth, even coverage. Once rinsed, that cosmetic tint disappears, and the true tan develops from the skin’s own reaction with DHA and amino acids, independent of any bronzer hue.
This distinction defines AYU’s integrity: our focus is on skin behavior and performance science, not color trends or marketing myths.
Here’s How That Works in Practice
- The bronzer you see right after spraying is a temporary cosmetic tint that helps ensure even application and gives the client an instant glow.
- The final tan forms through the Maillard reaction, where DHA reacts with surface amino acids to create melanoidin pigments.
- Botanicals like Rooibos, Muscadine Grape, Dragon Fruit, Turmeric, and Maqui Berry create slight variations in bronzer hue, but these shifts are purely cosmetic and do not affect undertones.
- All AYU bronzers use FDA-compliant, water-soluble dyes that rinse away completely.
In short: bronzer tint = application guide + visual cue, not “color correction.”
Choosing the Right AYU System (for Artists & Clients)
Each AYU collection represents a distinct delivery system, not a marketing duplicate. Professionals rely on formulas that perform predictably. When a new system or ingredient mix improves hydration, fade, or development, we add it, not replace what’s already working.
Below is a guide to how each AYU solution differs in function and how to choose among them:
AYU Professional Collections and Their Purpose
| AYU Solution / DHA Range | Client Profile / Skin Behavior | Key Benefits & Notes |
|---|---|---|
|
Cocoanilla Latte 9.5% DHA |
Fair to medium depth; clients new to tanning; drier skin | Gentle, warm tone with smooth fade |
|
Cocoanilla Mocha 12% DHA |
Medium depth; balanced skin | Rich bronze color with hydrating support |
|
Cocoanilla Espresso 14% DHA (dual function: classic + rapid) |
Deeper skin depth or fast-rinse clients | Can be used as an express or full-develop tan |
|
Tanvee Advanced Medium 10% DHA |
All skin types seeking balanced bronze | Even development; barrier-supportive micro-emulsion base |
|
Tanvee Advanced Dark 12% DHA |
Clients seeking deeper results | Richer tone; smooth, hydrated fade |
|
Tanvee Advanced Rapid Rinse-based |
Express tan clients | Depth controlled by rinse time |
|
Vino Bronzing Mist 6%, 8%, 10%, 12%, 14% DHA |
All skin types; longevity-focused | Antioxidant-rich formula for long-lasting fade |
|
Vino Rapid Bronzing Mist Rapid rinse |
Time-sensitive clients | Same base as Vino; flexible rinse time |
|
AYU Plus Brown / Clear 6%, 8%, 10%, 12%, 14% DHA |
Artists who prefer classic formulas | Predictable results; choice of bronzed or clear version |
| Celerity Rapid Rapid rinse | All skin types; express tans | Fast-drying; customizable rinse time |
| Maximus Extreme Tan Competition-tan | Stage or fitness competitors | High color payoff; strong adhesion; balanced tone under stage lighting |
Each product has a purpose. It’s not about having too many, it’s about giving you the right tool for the right client.
Why AYU’s “Multiple Solutions” Are a Feature, Not a Flaw
- They let you match technique to client (time, skin behavior, and intensity).
- They help you adapt when skin conditions change (humidity, dryness, lifestyle).
- They prevent AYU from being boxed into “one-size-fits-all.”
- They keep innovation alive, with better hydration, smoother fades, and improved skin comfort.
Think of AYU’s lineup not as a list of products, but as your palette of performance, each designed for a unique skin scenario rather than a color category.
This kind of product diversity is not unique to sunless tanning. It is how most advanced skincare and lifestyle brands innovate. Consider The Ordinary, which offers several retinoids that all deliver vitamin A benefits but use different delivery systems to suit varying skin sensitivities. Neutrogena’s Hydro Boost line follows the same idea. Each moisturizer hydrates the skin, yet the base and texture vary depending on whether the user’s skin is oily, dry, or overnight-focused. Even Nespresso works this way. Every pod brews coffee, but the roasting profile, bean blend, and intensity level create a completely different experience.
AYU follows that same principle. Every solution is built on DHA to deliver color, yet each one features a distinct ingredient system, antioxidant balance, and texture that complements different skin conditions and lifestyles. It is not about offering too many options. It is about giving professionals precise control over performance, comfort, and results.
Understanding DHA Percentages and Skin Behavior
Each DHA level determines how deep the tan can develop, but it’s not only about skin color; hydration, barrier health, and client preference matter just as much.
Use this guide to match DHA strength with skin type, lifestyle, and comfort level:
These DHA ranges appear across collections like Vino, AYU Plus, Tanvee, and Cocoanilla, helping you fine-tune results for each client’s skin condition and routine.
| DHA % | Ideal Skin Condition | Tan Result & Recommendation |
|---|---|---|
| 6% | Very fair, dry, or sensitive skin; first-time tanners | Soft, natural glow with minimal risk of uneven fade |
| 8% | Fair to light-medium skin; slightly dry to balanced | Healthy, beachy tan for everyday wear |
| 10% | Medium skin depth; well-balanced hydration | Classic golden bronze — AYU’s most universal range |
| 12% | Medium-deep or easily tanning clients | Rich, defined color with lasting depth |
| 14% | Deep or well-conditioned skin; experienced tanners | Ultra-deep, dramatic color for bold results |
Artist Notes
- Hydration = Even Development: Always prep the skin with Smooth Glow Prep Spray and seal with Moisture Seal to ensure DHA reacts evenly.
- Barrier Health Matters: Dry or unbalanced skin can react unevenly, even at lower DHA levels.
- Customization is Key: Every AYU formula is skin care–infused, but each supports the skin differently (hydration level, antioxidant support, dry-time, and fade behavior).
- Rapid Formulas: (Tanvee Rapid, Vino Rapid, Celerity, Cocoanilla Espresso) adjust depth by rinse time rather than DHA percentage. Starting depth is ~6–8%, deepening by ~2% per additional hour before rinse.
The Takeaway
AYU doesn’t have too many formulas; it has purpose-built systems that respond to real skin.
Our color descriptors (plum, reddish-blue, cocoa, caramel) refer only to the temporary bronzer tint, not undertones or skin correction.
The final tan tone is determined by the skin’s own DHA reaction, not bronzer shade.
AYU leads with truth, integrity, and innovation, not trends.
When you understand how and why each formula differs, you can confidently match your technique and your client to the perfect AYU solution.
Every artist who understands these nuances can create more predictable, longer-lasting, and healthier tans, that’s the real AYU difference
Note: All AYU solutions are skin care–infused, each designed to support the skin in its own way. From antioxidant protection to barrier repair, every system offers a unique balance of hydration, dry-time, and fade performance, allowing you to deliver consistent results for every skin type.
About the Author
Vibha Makwana is a cosmetic chemist with over 30 years of formulation experience and the founder of AYU Sunless, a skincare-infused sunless tanning company blending modern science with Ayurvedic balance. She educates beauty professionals on DHA chemistry and skin health, promoting barrier-supportive tanning innovations that define healthy, radiant skin.