AYU Sunless FAQs.
DHA (Dihydroxyacetone) is a three-carbon reducing sugar and the principal color-developing ingredient used in most sunless tanning formulas. It reacts with amino groups in free amino acids, peptides and proteins within the stratum corneum through a nonenzymatic browning process commonly described as the Maillard reaction. This reaction forms colored compounds called melanoidins without stimulating melanin or requiring UV exposure.
Visible DHA-developed color begins forming within several hours and can continue developing after the first rinse. The timing and depth depend on the DHA concentration, complete formulation, amount applied, development time and condition of the skin. The color gradually fades as the colored cells of the stratum corneum naturally shed.
Erythrulose is a four-carbon reducing sugar that participates in a similar reaction but develops more gradually, commonly over 24 to 48 hours. When used alone, it generally produces lighter color, which is why formulators often combine it with DHA.
In a carefully balanced formula, DHA contributes earlier color development while erythrulose contributes more gradually. This broadens the development profile and can support a smoother progression of color and fade. Erythrulose does not independently guarantee a deeper, more even or longer-lasting tan. Its performance depends on its concentration, its ratio with DHA, the complete formulation and the client's skin.
At AYU Sunless, DHA is the primary tanning active, and erythrulose is incorporated into selected formulas when its slower development profile supports the intended performance. We evaluate the tanning actives, pH, delivery system, skin-conditioning ingredients and development schedule as one complete formulation system.
For a deeper explanation, read How Sunless Tanning Actually Works on Skin.
Bronzers, also called color guides, are water-soluble, temporary cosmetic colorants added to many sunless tanning solutions. They provide visible color on the skin immediately after application, before the DHA-developed tan has fully formed.
They serve several purposes. They give the client immediate cosmetic color, help the spray tan artist see where solution has been applied, and can create different temporary appearances on the skin depending on the bronzer hue and the client’s natural skin tone.
Different bronzer hues can matter visually before the first rinse. Because these colorants are translucent, the same bronzer may appear somewhat different from one client to another depending on the skin tone and undertone underneath it.
What bronzer color does not do is permanently neutralize, cancel or change a client’s natural undertone.
Most of the cosmetic guide bronzer is removed during the first rinse, with any remaining residue typically removed during the next shower or cleanse with soap or body wash.
The lasting sunless color develops through the DHA reaction within the outermost layers of the skin. The final result is influenced by the complete formulation, including DHA concentration, development time, skin condition and hydration, application and aftercare, rather than by bronzer color alone.
In short: bronzers are water-soluble, temporary cosmetic colorants. Their color matters for the immediate appearance and application experience, but they do not control the final DHA-developed tan or permanently color-correct the client’s undertone.
Want to understand the science behind bronzer colors and undertones more deeply? Read Why Color Theory Fails in Sunless Tanning: Why It Sounds Right but Does Not Work.
An AYU spray tan typically remains visible for approximately 7 to 10 days, although results vary by client. DHA-developed color forms in the outermost layer of the skin and gradually fades as those colored surface cells naturally shed.
Longevity and fade depend on skin condition and hydration, preparation, the complete formulation, amount applied, development and rinse time, bathing, shaving, friction, swimming, sweating and aftercare.
To support a longer, more even fade, follow the recommended preparation and rinse instructions, cleanse gently, moisturize consistently and avoid aggressive exfoliation.
For more information, read How Long Does a Spray Tan Last?
Both clear and bronzed AYU solutions develop sunless color through DHA and may also contain erythrulose, depending on the formula. The difference is the presence or absence of a temporary cosmetic guide bronzer.
Clear solution contains no cosmetic guide bronzer. It may appear crystal clear or milky white depending on the formulation. Clear can be especially useful for facial application and for clients with sensitive skin who prefer to avoid additional guide-colorant ingredients. On faces with visible or enlarged pores, cosmetic bronzer can collect around the pore openings and temporarily make them appear darker or more noticeable.
Clear is also a good option for weddings, special events and light-colored clothing because it minimizes visible guide-bronzer transfer. However, careful and methodical application is important because the artist has less visible color to guide coverage.
A solution with bronzer contains water-soluble cosmetic colorants that provide immediate color and help the spray tan artist see where the solution has been applied. Most of the bronzer is removed during the first water rinse. The lasting tan develops through the DHA reaction and is not controlled by the temporary bronzer color.
AYU products are formulated with skin comfort in mind. Our sunless tanning formulas do not contain simple drying alcohols, and fragrance-free and bronzer-free options are available. However, sensitive skin is not one uniform skin type, and no cosmetic product can be guaranteed suitable for every individual.
Before using a new product, review the ingredient list for known sensitivities. For a client with sensitive skin, perform a small preliminary-use test on the inside of the arm 24 to 48 hours before the full application, following the product's recommended wear and rinse instructions. A short preliminary test cannot rule out every delayed reaction.
Do not apply sunless tanning products to skin that is actively irritated, inflamed, broken or experiencing a flare. Discontinue use if burning, itching, redness or swelling occurs. Clients with known allergies, persistent skin conditions or previous cosmetic reactions should consult their dermatologist or medical provider before use.
For additional information, read Is DHA Safe? The Real Science Behind Your Sunless Tan.
How can I get help choosing the right AYU product?
Visit our Contact Us page and complete the inquiry form. Please tell us whether you are a spray tan professional or retail customer, which products or formulas you are considering, your desired result and any previous results or application concerns. This information helps our team provide more useful product and application guidance.
A member of the AYU team will respond within 1 to 2 business days.
No, AYU sunless tanning products and bronzers do not provide protection from sun. All of the labels on our sunless tanning products contain the below warning:
"Warning--This product does not contain a sunscreen and does not protect against sunburn. Repeated exposure of unprotected skin while tanning may increase the risk of skin aging, skin cancer, and other harmful effects to the skin even if you do not burn."
A higher DHA percentage generally increases the potential depth of the developed tan, but percentage alone does not determine the final result.
For AYU classic solutions, the following can be used as a general reference:
6% to 8% DHA: Lighter potential depth
9.5% to 10% DHA: Medium potential depth
12% DHA: Deeper potential depth
14% DHA: AYU's deepest classic percentage option
These ranges describe potential depth, not fixed recommendations based on age, skin tone or skin type. The same DHA percentage may also perform differently within different formulations.
The spray tan artist should consider the complete formulation, the client's current skin condition and hydration, desired depth, previous results, development time, amount applied, preparation and aftercare.
Mature skin does not automatically require a lower DHA percentage. Mature skin may be dry, dehydrated, balanced or well hydrated and should be evaluated according to how it presents at the appointment.
Rapid solutions should be selected and rinsed according to the instructions for that specific formula rather than treated like classic percentage-based solutions.
For a new client, begin with a thoughtful, conservative selection and document the formula, percentage, application, development time, fully developed result and fade. This provides better guidance for future appointments than relying on a rigid percentage chart.
For more detailed professional guidance, read What DHA Percentage Should a Spray Tan Artist Use?
AYU Sunless tanning solutions should be used within 12 months, we recommend you keep containers tightly closed, away from sunlight and store at room temperature. You do not have to refrigerate or freeze our solution.
AYU sunless tanning products and other self-tanning products in the market have not been tested on pregnant women. We strongly recommend that you consult with your doctor before using any sunless tanning products. We will be happy to provide you with all the ingredients and information needed so that you can discuss and make a decision with your medical professionals.
AYU Sunless manufactures products in-house in small batches. This allows us to align production more closely with demand and helps limit unnecessary overproduction.
We continue to evaluate our ingredient sourcing, packaging, manufacturing and shipping practices for practical opportunities to reduce avoidable waste. Sustainability is an ongoing process, and environmental impact varies by product, packaging material and local recycling program.
We do not make blanket claims that every AYU product or package is eco-friendly, biodegradable or recyclable. Customers should follow their local recycling guidelines for each packaging component.